Algae blooms on siding
This is an issue which apparently bears on some homes more than others within the community. It appears that some homes in the development are developing unsightly algae blooms on their North facing vinyl siding. It is most noticeable on white siding, although to a much lesser extent on other light colored siding. The problem is not strictly season, although it “grows” only in the Summer, any staining remains throughout the year. Apparently no colors are exempt because I just removed it from my darker clay colored siding but mine was sparse and only visible upon close up examination whereas it is most noticeable from a distance on white siding. This problem is addressed in detail on many Internet sites, e.g.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7706386_remove-algae-side-house.html
and is simple to solve, but labor intensive to address and probably costly if done professionally……..and even then only on a temporary basis. You may remove it only to have it return the next season! Additionally, as discussed in many Internet articles it seems that repeated power washing may cause damage to areas under the siding and chlorinated bleach may damage certain types of siding. Thus, power washing may not be best or only way of addressing the issue and research should be done before you choose a solution. In my case, a sturdy sixteen foot painters’ pole with attached car wash brush and a pail of soapy water with a little oxygenated bleach and mild scrubbing removed it easily. Walkouts may also require a ladder for additional reach to the uppermost peak if affected.
T.C.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7706386_remove-algae-side-house.html
and is simple to solve, but labor intensive to address and probably costly if done professionally……..and even then only on a temporary basis. You may remove it only to have it return the next season! Additionally, as discussed in many Internet articles it seems that repeated power washing may cause damage to areas under the siding and chlorinated bleach may damage certain types of siding. Thus, power washing may not be best or only way of addressing the issue and research should be done before you choose a solution. In my case, a sturdy sixteen foot painters’ pole with attached car wash brush and a pail of soapy water with a little oxygenated bleach and mild scrubbing removed it easily. Walkouts may also require a ladder for additional reach to the uppermost peak if affected.
T.C.
Phase 1 units with heat pumps
I have a Thomas Jefferson model with dual zone HVAC, i.e. a heat pump for heating and cooling of the top floor, this also applies to all phase 1 homes with heat pumps due to similar construction. High temperature conditions on the top floor can be improved by using sun blocker blinds and/or drapes to reduce heat transfer, and assuring that the Freon charge is up to specs is important. But is appears that with age certain problems may develop with the heat exchanger in the attic that are directly attributable to a poor method of construction which can drastically affect operation in the summer months.At least 1 other home was similarly affected, but there may be many more with this problem or which will develop this problem in the future.
The heat exchanger in the attic is basically a sealed metal cased unit containing an enclosed fan unit that draws air from a square register(s) in the ceiling, passes it through a coil where the Freon inside either supplies heat in the Winter or extracts heat to provide cooling in the Summer, and then exhausts the air back into the rooms through rectangular registers in the ceiling. The inside of the attic is a nightmare of a dozen or so insulated ducts that bring air into and out of the heat exchanger.
On each end of the heat exchanger is a square collector box custom made of aluminum foil covered stiff fiberglass board which is attached to the main body of the unit using adhesive metal duct tape……..an air tight seal between these boxes and the heat exchanger is very important to prevent air loss or entry into the attic instead of the floor below. In my case they were attached with a single layer of adhesive metal duct tape. These collector boxes are not supported underneath and hang freely off the end of the unit….so with vibration, age and 120+ temperatures in the attic….the metal tape will rip open and or get so hot the tape adhesive will release and the boxes will sag creating openings for air to go directly into the attic or hot air (120+) being drawn from the attic instead of the rooms. In my case both ends were damaged and hot attic air was being pulled into the intake and cooled air was being exhausted into the attic….of course at mid-day my top floor was 80 degrees with the heat pump running flat out. The problem was corrected by bringing the ends of the boxes to the correct height using wooden shims between the ends and the wooden platform that is about 4”below….once the boxes are level and flush to the heat exchanger it can be properly secured with multiple pieces of metal duct tape. Since there is now proper support on the ends……there is no more stress on the taped seal so it should be a permanent fix. A small problem will still remain because there is little clearance between the drain pan to re-tape the bottom edge of the boxes WHICH WERE NEVER TAPED TO BEGIN WITH….with a lot of squeezing you may be able to tape about 50 to 75% of the seam…or in my case I sealed the remaining space by forcing a piece of foam rubber between the drip pan and unsealed area to make up the seal. Actually, I was amazed by the increase of efficiency.....the heat pump now cycles on and off, the top floor is 4-6 degrees cooler, and the unit is much quieter. Should also reduce cycling of the backup heaters during the Winter.
T.C.
The heat exchanger in the attic is basically a sealed metal cased unit containing an enclosed fan unit that draws air from a square register(s) in the ceiling, passes it through a coil where the Freon inside either supplies heat in the Winter or extracts heat to provide cooling in the Summer, and then exhausts the air back into the rooms through rectangular registers in the ceiling. The inside of the attic is a nightmare of a dozen or so insulated ducts that bring air into and out of the heat exchanger.
On each end of the heat exchanger is a square collector box custom made of aluminum foil covered stiff fiberglass board which is attached to the main body of the unit using adhesive metal duct tape……..an air tight seal between these boxes and the heat exchanger is very important to prevent air loss or entry into the attic instead of the floor below. In my case they were attached with a single layer of adhesive metal duct tape. These collector boxes are not supported underneath and hang freely off the end of the unit….so with vibration, age and 120+ temperatures in the attic….the metal tape will rip open and or get so hot the tape adhesive will release and the boxes will sag creating openings for air to go directly into the attic or hot air (120+) being drawn from the attic instead of the rooms. In my case both ends were damaged and hot attic air was being pulled into the intake and cooled air was being exhausted into the attic….of course at mid-day my top floor was 80 degrees with the heat pump running flat out. The problem was corrected by bringing the ends of the boxes to the correct height using wooden shims between the ends and the wooden platform that is about 4”below….once the boxes are level and flush to the heat exchanger it can be properly secured with multiple pieces of metal duct tape. Since there is now proper support on the ends……there is no more stress on the taped seal so it should be a permanent fix. A small problem will still remain because there is little clearance between the drain pan to re-tape the bottom edge of the boxes WHICH WERE NEVER TAPED TO BEGIN WITH….with a lot of squeezing you may be able to tape about 50 to 75% of the seam…or in my case I sealed the remaining space by forcing a piece of foam rubber between the drip pan and unsealed area to make up the seal. Actually, I was amazed by the increase of efficiency.....the heat pump now cycles on and off, the top floor is 4-6 degrees cooler, and the unit is much quieter. Should also reduce cycling of the backup heaters during the Winter.
T.C.
Birds nesting in vents
All phase 1 homes, especially those backing to trees, should check the basement and main floor bathroom exhaust and dryer vents to see if birds are nesting inside…_easiest way is to look for bird droppings on the siding directly below the vents or if you hear a flapping noise coming from the bathroom fan. Home Depot sells plastic bird/rodent cages that attach over the vent….phase 2 homes are not affected, they already have these cages built into their vents. Danger is that nesting birds can compromise the “dryer hose” connecting the fan and vent and build a nest in your ceiling joists. If the flapper on the vent opens when the fan is on the duct is still intact. Easiest and safest way to get them out and keep them out is to use an air horn to scare them out and then secure the cage over the vent.
Water usage Phase 1 homes
Apparently, Phase 1 homes in Sheridan were installed without an expansion tank in the col water line near the hot water heater. Construction beginning with phase 2 homes contain an expansion tank in the water system. When asked, Todd the construction foreman of KHov said that the expansion tank became code after the construction of phase 1 homes.Do you have water ghosts that unexpectedly flush a toilet or is your sump pump operating even in dry weather? If so, you may be inadvertently wasting water and paying for it. It took me over 5 years to finally figure out why my water bills were so high
Phase 1 homes usually have a 75-80 gal propane fired hot water heater, a 3/4" cold water supply line and a pressure reducing valve on the intake supply line. right after the main shutoff. When hot water is used it is replenished with cold water and as the cold water is heated the volume expands.....since it cannot go backward throuigh the pressure reducing valve, pressure will build in the system no water is being drawn. Under those conditions the pressure will either force its way past the float valve in the toilet tank and into the overflow pip and drain into the sewer (sometimes even self flush the toilet), or exhaust through the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve on the top of the hot water heater and exhaust into the sump and then ejected outside the house. If everything is fine water should not be flowing into the tank overflow pipe and the T&P valve should be hot, but not the white plastic pipe going from it to to the sump. Other indicators might be the sound of water constantly dripping into the sump when the A/C is off or water rippling in the toilet bowl between flushes.
Our water is expensive....since installation of the tank, I have had the first months where all I receive is the minimum bill. Installation of a 2 gal. size expansion tank on my cold water line was sufficient to end my water problems.
Phase 1 homes usually have a 75-80 gal propane fired hot water heater, a 3/4" cold water supply line and a pressure reducing valve on the intake supply line. right after the main shutoff. When hot water is used it is replenished with cold water and as the cold water is heated the volume expands.....since it cannot go backward throuigh the pressure reducing valve, pressure will build in the system no water is being drawn. Under those conditions the pressure will either force its way past the float valve in the toilet tank and into the overflow pip and drain into the sewer (sometimes even self flush the toilet), or exhaust through the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve on the top of the hot water heater and exhaust into the sump and then ejected outside the house. If everything is fine water should not be flowing into the tank overflow pipe and the T&P valve should be hot, but not the white plastic pipe going from it to to the sump. Other indicators might be the sound of water constantly dripping into the sump when the A/C is off or water rippling in the toilet bowl between flushes.
Our water is expensive....since installation of the tank, I have had the first months where all I receive is the minimum bill. Installation of a 2 gal. size expansion tank on my cold water line was sufficient to end my water problems.
